Starting Work on the model. I first removed and discarded the old deck and reinforced many of the bulkhead joints. I then cut out sufficient room down aft to allow me to fit a cockpit. I ran in two coats of a very liquid epoxy to try to seal all leaks from the inside and coated her externally with another two coats of epoxy. I faired out as many of the hull irregularities as possible.
Then the fun part started. After fitting a new marked deck (David fits all his deck planks individually, each plank with a strip of black photographic paper glued down one side to simulate the caulking) and then fitted the raised bulwarks all round the deck. The cap rails were steamed to get them to take the proper bend but the taffrail was cut out of solid teak. And so it went on, bit by bit and the photographs will show you what she looks like now. The rudder is over-sized as, with a model, the rudder has to be bigger than scale to give the same degree of control. I made two companion-way hatches, one more authentic than the other but the less authentic one is expressly for when the boat is ready to be radio-controlled as the rope/block rack on the starboard side of the hatch is really just a removeable blank to cover the slot through which the steering servo arm protrudes.
I bought a few of the fittings such as the anchor and cable, the round decklight in the hatch cover leading down into the foc’sle and so on.
Few of the real Pilot Cutters had raised skylights but I had to give Nancy one as it was the only realistic way of hiding the sheet servo. In the real boats, light for the below-deck spaces was provided by ordinary decklights let into the deck.
The Mast. Most of the Pilot Cutters built had a mainmast and topmast and had I been starting from scratch I might well have had this rig for the model of Nancy. But as Uncle B had built his model with a single pole, and as few of the real boats also had single poles I decided to stick with this.
The Rigging. There are three sizes of rope used and there are some 40 blocks including about ten doubles and two trebles, each with brass rotating sheaves turning on brass spindles. The rigging, both standing and running is – as far as I can make it, exactly as it was in the proper Pilot Cutters with dead-eyes, three fore-haliards, and with both the mainsail and gaff halyards brought aft to securing points within reach of the cockpit. There were lots of deck dead-eyes to lead the various ropes to where the crew wanted them.
The Sails. Uncle B gave both the staysail and the flying jib booms and this may have been because he felt they would sail better with them but none of the real cutters had them so my rebuilt model of Nancy has both sails loose footed.
The Radio Control. Virtually all the models currently being raced are built on glass-fibre hulls (many produced by David) and thus are easily adapted to have all their radio control servos and lines out of sight below deck. With Nancy this was just not possible as it was next to impossible to run all the necessary wires and cords through all the bulkheads. I built several mock-ups but eventually had to have both my rudder bar and the sheeting cords visible. I also had to build that pitched decklight to house and hide the sheet servo – and of course no real Pilot Cutter had this. But perhaps it doesn’t look too bad.